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Construction Acrylic Caulks, Decorators Painters Mate, Prices,

Acrylic Caulks, Decorators Painters Mate /m Supply and Apply Specialist Applicators

 

 

Supply and Apply Prices in UK Construction Industry

 

Water based general purpose sealants and decorators caulk. 1.20/m

The above rate does not include over painting the bead which is required.  Generally a decorator will allow for using a caulk between two painted surfaces for gaps up to approximately 3mm, however the extra over rate for gaps of 3 to 10mm is 1.20/m.  A gap next to a pre-finished surface should be filled using a self finished mastic even if on of the surfaces at the junction is painted.  Forming a caulk line that cannot be completely overlapped on both surfaces is bad practice and should be avoided, as this will cause future cleaning and maintenance problems.  You should note that this produce is designed to be painted over as are all decorators acrylic sealants.  They cannot be rubbed down and will discolour and pick up dust and dirt if not over painted, these unpainted caulks can blacken and promote bacterial growth so it is essential that they are painted over completely.  These sealants and fillers are water based and usually used for gap filling down the sides of architraves or in the top of skirting boards. Again they are supplied in many colours and can be over-printed, some can be sanded and the white ones can sometimes be stained but check on the tube if this is the case.
 

 

 

How to use and apply Mastic type sealants and caulks

 

 

 

Using a sealant, mastic or decorators caulk application gun takes practice to get it right and even the basics like trimming the nozzle are important. Firstly, using a sharp hobby knife, place the nozzle on a flat surface which will not be damaged if you cut into it. Then cut the nozzle at an angle of about 45 degrees. The higher up the nozzle the smaller the aperture you will leave so start small and widen, by cutting further down, if required. By cutting small, a very thin, neat line of mastic can be applied. Wider strips are much harder to get neat.   Applying silicone mastic successfully can depend on so many criteria. The brick or render surface next to your frame may be ragged and uneven, in which case you will have to work harder to achieve a neat finish. The dream scenario is a smooth and straight surface that your mastic gun will glide over and leave a perfect line twixt frame and wall that needs no further attention. They always say that you should start from the bottom and work your way upwards gently squeezing the trigger of your mastic gun so that the mastic leads into the joint before the nozzle , filling it enough and self smoothing it as it goes without too much excess and slowing down on the trigger pressure as it reaches its end cycle. Of course the perfect line of mastic first time is hardly ever achievable! Most professional window fitters will find it irresistible to not run a moistened finger down the line to iron out any imperfections and back again in the opposite direction to counter any drag lines. Of course for health and safety reasons you should avoid any skin contact with silicone as it is supposed to be a carcinogenic material and may possibly do you harm. There are devices on the market that you can purchase that look very similar to an index finger.


Screw the nozzle onto the end of the tube and insert into gun. Squeeze the trigger gently until you can see the mastic appearing in the nozzle. Always have a piece of rag with you. Place the nozzle onto the job at the same angle as the nozzle cut then lift the handle end slightly to allow the mastic to be squeezed out. Move the gun at the same time as pulling the trigger (this is where a little practice is invaluable) keeping the bead of mastic uniform in thickness. Do not move too quickly or you will "stretch" the bead, too slowly and it will distort.

The cut size of the end of the nozzle on the end of your tube of mastic must be a tad larger than the gap that you wish to fill. Try to cut the nozzle cleanly with a sharp craft knife as any raggedness will affect the finished line. Gently squeeze the mastic guns trigger and push the gun before you lightly in an upwards direction barely making contact between the frame and brick/plaster work, and keep a steady pressure on the trigger. There is no hurry! You can of course reverse the way you hold your gun and apply the mastic as you drag the line behind the nozzle from top to bottom for instance, this may require a little more practice, but can still be very effective and is the way I often prefer. On a basic skeleton gun be ready to push the overrun tab to stop any unwanted flow of mastic as you reach the end of the mastic line. Some guns do this automatically when you release the trigger pressure.

Low modulus silicone is the trade standard for exterior applications nowadays and decorators caulk is for inside use as it can be painted over with emulsion or oil paints as it is a water based medium unlike silicone that resists most paints and varnishes,.

Remember that most modern mastic's start to 'go off' fairly quickly, so do not leave it too long before you tidy it up wiping any excess off with a cloth or smoothing as described above. Mastic's come in many colours from clear to white, toffee, brown and black, so choose the colour you think will complement your installation best and match the frame colour to suit.

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